Perfume industry dictionary
The perfume industry, also known as the fragrance industry, is a vast and fascinating world of fragrances, where the creation of perfumes is combined with science, art and craftsmanship. It is a field where creativity, chemical knowledge and sensitivity to subtle olfactory nuances meet. In order to better understand this unique market, it is useful to familiarise yourself with the basic terms and concepts that are used in it.
Chord:
A harmonious combination of different fragrances that gives the perfume its characteristic scent.
Aldehydes:
Organic chemical compounds often used in perfumery to add freshness and refinement to fragrances.
Antiperspirant:
A product that partially reduces perspiration by temporarily plugging the sweat gland outlets only at the application site.
Applicator:
A tool used to apply perfume, usually in the form of a sprayer.
Oil base:
Fragrance-bearing oil in a perfume instead of alcohol.
Fragrance base:
Ingredients used to create the scent base in perfumes, such as jojoba oil or alcohol.
Blotter:
A tool in the form of a special paper that allows a fragrance to be tested and evaluated by applying a small amount of perfume to it.
Decant:
A small bottle containing a small amount of perfume, allowing you to test the fragrance without having to purchase a full-size flacon.
Drydown:
The phase in which the perfume reaches its final fragrance tones on the skin.
Fragrance diffuser:
A device or product that is used to distribute a pleasant fragrance indoors.
Eau de Cologne (EDC):
A cologne - a perfume with an even lower concentration of fragrance oils than EDT, often used as a light and refreshing fragrance.
Eau de Parfum (EDP):
Eau de Parfum - a perfume with a higher concentration of fragrances, usually containing between 15% and 20% fragrance oils.
Eau de Solide (EDS):
Refreshing water - perfume with the lowest concentration of fragrances, usually containing between 1% and 3% fragrance oils.
Eau de Toilette (EDT):
Eau de Toilette - a perfume with a lower concentration of fragrances than EDP, usually containing between 5% and 15% fragrance oils.
Perfume extract:
Perfume with the highest concentration of fragrance oils, usually containing between 20% and 40% fragrances.
Extrait de Parfum:
Perfume extract - the perfume with the highest concentration of fragrance oils, usually containing between 20% and 40% fragrances.
Factice:
A decorative, unfilled flacon used in the pre-perfumery industry to display fragrances. Usually made of materials not intended for perfume storage.
Fixative:
A substance used in perfumery to extend the life of a fragrance on the skin.
Flacon:
The container in which perfumes are stored, often decorated and elegant.
Flanker:
A variant or variation of an existing perfume fragrance. Flankers are new versions or interpretations of the original fragrance that differ slightly from the original, often having additional fragrance notes.
Diethyl phthalate (DEP):
In perfumery, a solvent for fragrance compositions and a fragrance fixative.
Gourmand:
A fragrance category inspired by food scents such as vanilla, caramel or chocolate.
Grasse:
The town in France where Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain built the first perfume distillery in 1828.
Iso E Super:
A fragrance ingredient with a subtle and pleasant aroma that is often used in perfumes as a background or base.
Perfume collection:
Includes different fragrances within one brand.
Fragrance composition:
The entirety of a composed fragrance, encompassing all the fragrance notes and their harmony.
Fragrance composer:
The person responsible for creating the blend of fragrance oils that make up a perfume.
Fragrance concentrate:
A product with a higher concentration of fragrance oils than traditional perfumes, making it even more long-lasting.
Lilial (Butylphenyl Methylpropional):
A synthetic aromatic aldehyde with an odour described as mildly floral, reminiscent of cyclamen and lily of the valley. As of 1 March 2022, cosmetic products containing Lilial are banned from the market.
Perfume line:
Perfumes with a similar character, created by the same brand. A line can include different variants of the same fragrance or different fragrances related to a common theme.
Miser:
The process of macerating fragrances to obtain a specific fragrance composition.
Musk Ambrette:
A fragrance with notes of musk, used as a fixative in perfumes.
Base note:
A long-lasting and deep fragrance note, it lingers on the skin for hours.
Head note:
The first impression of a fragrance after application, usually only lasts a few minutes.
Heart note:
The middle part of the fragrance, it develops after the head notes and is the characteristic element of the fragrance composition.
Fragrance notes:
The perfume's complex fragrance structure, which includes a head note (first impression), a heart note (the middle part of the fragrance) and a base note (the lasting accent).
Perfumed oil:
Perfumes in oil form that are applied to the skin instead of traditional liquid perfumes.
Oud:
A precious oil extracted from agarwood, used in perfumery to create intense and luxurious fragrances.
Parfum:
Perfume proper - perfumes with a higher concentration of fragrances, usually containing between 10% and 30% fragrance oils.
Perfumery:
The Art of Perfume Creation, and the place to buy different brands and types of perfume.
Perfumette:
A miniature perfume, often in roll-on or spray form, easy to carry in a handbag or pocket.
Perfumer:
The person responsible for creating fragrance compositions and mixing perfume ingredients.
Perfume (from French par fumée 'through smoke'):
Fragrance products with an intense aroma, containing a higher concentration of fragrance oils, usually lasting longer on the skin.
Aldehyde perfumes:
Perfumes containing aldehydes, which give them a bright and sparkling character.
Boutique perfumes:
These are created by independent perfumers or small, independent brands that often value creative freedom and experiment with unusual fragrance ingredients.
Chypre perfume:
A perfume characterised by notes of oak moss, patchouli and fruit.
Citrus perfume:
A fragrance category with distinct citrus notes such as bergamot, orange or lemon.
Women's perfumes:
Fragrances created with women in mind, often containing floral and sweet accents.
Woody perfume:
A fragrance category with dominant woody notes such as cedar, sandalwood and vetiver.
Perfume fougeres:
Perfume with notes of moss, lavender and geranium.
Gourmand perfumes:
Perfumes inspired by food, with notes such as chocolate, vanilla, caramel or pralines.
One-step perfumes:
Perfumes that do not change when worn, have a constant scent throughout.
Classic perfumes:
Perfumes that have been on the market for a long time and have been consistently appreciated by consumers.
Floral perfume:
A fragrance category based on floral notes such as rose, jasmine, lilac, lubian.
Summer perfume:
Perfume lines created specifically for the summer season, usually lighter and more refreshing.
Limited edition perfumes:
Perfumes that are only available for a limited time or in a limited quantity.
Mass-market perfumes:
These are created by large cosmetics companies, which are often subject to market trends and mass-produce fragrances to achieve maximum sales.
Men's perfumes:
Fragrances designed specifically for men, characterised by more pronounced and intense notes.
Niche perfumes:
Perfumes produced by independent creators, often in small quantities, characterised by unique and unusual fragrance compositions.
Oriental perfume:
A fragrance category characterised by warm, spicy and exotic notes.
Powder perfume:
A fragrance category with soft, powdery notes, often based on musk or vanilla.
Selective perfumes:
These are premium brands, most often associated with fashion houses that are very concerned with the quality of their products.
Leather perfumes:
Perfumes with distinct notes of leather, often with woody or spice elements.
Unisex perfumes:
Perfumes created regardless of gender that can be worn by both men and women.
Vintage perfume:
Older, classic perfumes that are still on the market or are prized by collectors.
Evening perfume:
A perfume with an intense aroma, ideal for wearing in the evening or on special occasions.
Multi-stage perfumes:
Perfumes that develop on the skin and evolve through different fragrance notes.
Water perfume:
Perfumes with a light, fresh aroma, often inspired by the sea or water.
Distillation process:
A method of extracting fragrance oils from plant materials, such as flowers or leaves.
Projection:
Determines the longevity and intensity of a fragrance on the skin. High projection makes the fragrance clearly perceptible from a greater distance, while with poor projection it is more difficult to sense.
Reformulation:
Modification of a pre-existing recipe to improve the quality of the fragrance, reduce production costs or comply with current regulations.
Sillage:
The scent trail left around by the wearer of a perfume.
Tester:
Perfume bottle designed to be sampled in shops or perfume shops.
Cologne:
A light and refreshing form of fragrance that contains a lower concentration of fragrance oils than perfumes. The name 'cologne' is derived from the city of Cologne in Germany.
Perfumed water:
Also often referred to as perfume, this is a fragrance product with a relatively high concentration of fragrance oils. It is one of the most persistent forms of fragrance available on the market and usually lasts on the skin for many hours.
Eau de Toilette:
A lighter variety of perfume with a lower concentration of fragrance oils, often used on a daily basis.
Fragrance:
A characteristic aroma or scent that is the result of a mixture of different fragrances.